The liqueur of ancient tradition
Dense, full-bodied and aromatic: nocino is the most famous liqueur of the ancient Modenese tradition and par excellence, the most widely consumed at the end of a meal on all the tables of our area. It is popular not only for its characteristics but also thanks to the abundant presence of walnut trees cultivated in the areas between the Secchia and Panaro rivers. It is in fact from the walnut husks harvested before the shell hardens that nocino is made. This simple raw material is infused in alcohol and sugar and left to macerate in the sun for about two months. The resulting mixture is then filtered and bottled in strictly dark glass bottles.
History and culture of nocino
Between the two natural borders to the west and east of Modena, the Secchia and Panaro rivers, the raw material for making nocino has always been abundant and the local people have historically been accustomed to making the most of this gift of nature for the preparation of the liqueur.
The first mention of Nocino production dates back to 1860, when Ferdinando Cavazzoni, the credenziere (household steward responsible for the family’s food and table) of the Molza family, included in his recipe book of the finest specialities in the custom of Modena the technique for preparing the liqueur known as Nocino, which is still used today for its production by many Modenese families. A few years later, in the last decade of the 19th century, the recipe for Nocino was included in Pellegrino Artusi’s famous text La scienza in cucina e l’arte di mangiar bene (Science in the kitchen and the art of eating well).
The production of Nocino is now a custom that has been handed down for centuries and in the area it has not only forged an economic link with the product but also and above all a cultural one. Tradition has it that the walnuts were harvested on the night of St John’s Day, between 23 and 24 June, by the woman who was best at making the liqueur, who would climb the tree barefoot, pick only the best walnuts, by hand, without removing the shell. Left in the dew for the whole night, they were infused the next day and remained so until October 31, All Saints’ Eve. Also guiding the collection was the ancient popular belief that night dew was a panacea for every ailment, especially for digestive problems and gastro-intestinal disorders, for which Nocino is still considered an excellent natural remedy.
Characteristics of Nocino and its use in cooking
In a good Nocino the flavour of the walnuts must stand out but, depending on the recipe of the family that makes it, spices such as cloves or cinnamon may also stand out. The choice of walnuts is of fundamental importance: if possible organic, they should be harvested at the right time, when the shell has not yet formed, and a sort of jelly makes them soft. Once bottled, Nocino is clear, more or less dark brown in colour, and has an intense aroma with a hint of walnut and an aromatic, pleasant and persistent flavour, typical of unripe walnuts.
The simplest and most traditional way to enjoy Nocino is to serve it straight and at room temperature, as a digestif to round off a family meal. Today, its diffusion and its now deep-rooted link with the local gastronomic culture have developed different ways of using it: it is therefore common to drink it with ice in the summer or warm like punch during the winter. Various local catering establishments have also been proposing new and modern variants for some time now, using it as a special ingredient in a cocktail, as a garnish for ice cream, in hot chocolate or as a filling for chocolates.
The recipe for Nocino according to the ancient tradition of the Order of Nocino Modenese
Ingredients
1 litre of 95° alcohol buongusto
700-900 g sugar
1 kg walnuts (approx. 33-35 walnuts depending on the size but always an odd number)
The walnuts must be strictly locally sourced and not have undergone any treatments. They must also, as tradition indicates, have been harvested in the period including the feast of St John the Baptist. The correct consistency of the walnut must be assessed by piercing it with a pin and/or visually checked by splitting it in half with a knife.
Optional ingredients
Cloves and cinnamon (a little is already a lot) in small quantities and dosed in such a way that the prevailing aroma in the liqueur is always that of the nut, and that the overall bouquet created is harmonious.
Procedure
The walnuts, once harvested, must be cut into 4 parts and placed in a glass container (without rubber seals) together with sugar. After they have been kept in the sun for 1-2 days and regularly stirred, the nuts are ready for the addition of alcohol and any flavourings. The resulting product should be placed in an area partially exposed to the sun, occasionally opened and stirred, and filtered at least 60 days later. We recommend bottling the liqueur in dark glass containers and/or ageing the product in wooden barrels. Either oak or chestnut wood are suitable provided the cask has been properly treated before use. Nocino must be stored in a cool place for a minimum of 12 months in order to fully appreciate all the organoleptic characteristics of this liqueur.